Trek to Everest. For those who are in no hurry

Gori - tse Podorozh. Kilometers of paths, new or familiar. Otherwise, go straight ahead and across the route of the skin at different times. Burn - it feels like a home on the other side of the Earth. Bivak is close, the apartment is quiet. Burn - be under the sky. Under the same sky as those who are in charge. Under the same sky as those to whom the soul from the peaks rushes upward. Under the same sky with yourself. And it’s simply amazing, it’s beautiful to the point of being wasted!

Lukla

The first day of the trek, seeing each other for a long time. We started from Kathmandu on the first night. Due to repairs at the airport, it was possible to move to the airport 4 years from the city. We slept nominally - on the roads of Nepal there was merciless shaking and the serpentine turns were steep, so we tried to throw ourselves out of the chair. How quickly there was a column of soldiers that we overtook on the third night is beyond words.

We passed the small airfield quickly, so our flight arrived immediately and we flew to Lukla. The flight is short - about 20 km. Ale tsukerok stewardess got us sick. Checkmate, low-cost airlines

Lukli Airport is one of the most unsafe airports in the world. Even for a very short time, the smudge presses into the mountain on one side, and on the other it ends up in a cliff. Still shaggy. It's about 10 degrees, but you need to check it out. They asked us for a lot of land. There is no photo of the Smuga and the Letak, who recently broke up and was moved to the side of the road. And the photo is from. If you allow the Internet, I’ll agree.

In Lukla we were fed up, repacked, sorted out our radios, gave speeches to the porters and headed off to the first section. The road to Pakdinggu is not long. Three years after the halt, we were already in the lodge. We settled in, had lunch, had a bite to eat and rushed to the radio to the monastery on the mountain.

It's spring in Nepal. Rhododendrons are blooming and fruit trees are blooming. And the Nepalese women are already burning the potatoes. There are smells everywhere, birds are sleeping, flowers are blooming. I can’t believe that in just a day or two we’ve been spotted by bare stones and snow. In the meantime, enjoy the summer warmth. The fresh breeze after the suffocating Kathmandu makes me happy. In the evening, however, it becomes cold. The weather threatens to get cold and dampen our day. And hope for the monks, before whom we came to visit. True, the stinks practically did not react to us, but later they let us into the temple. Not puja, ale tezh is nasty.

The infection is already probable. Let's go up to the 6th mark tomorrow. Virus in Namche Bazar - the capital of the Sherpas.

Namche Bazaar

For those in a hurry: we arrived at Namche Bazaar (3443) without supplies. Everyone is alive, well and healthy. Kisen is normal, the pitch is correct :) Tomorrow the radar, we’ll look at Everest and then down to Namche.

We are in the capital of the Sherpas. I thought in advance that Namche Bazaar was just like that village. A very nice little place in the cup appeared. Malovniki booths are scattered across the terraces. The central square with a fountain and a stupa pleases with its inconspicuous decoration. Well, there is a whole cascade with a noisy flow stretching down to the square. There is still a place to buy or rent equipment. Dekhto z groupi tsim skoristavsya.

Gothel is awesome. There is a cheerful buzz in the canteen and a motley crew of trackers of all sorts are getting ready before the start and, in fact, come to life after the descent. The atmosphere is reminiscent of the one that was in Thorung Phedi yesterday. True, there, before the pass, it was more solemn. Bad weather was approaching and it was finally necessary to get ahead.

The route to Namche is picturesque and awkward. Navantazhennya will grow step by step. It's easy to walk. Several times the pulse rose, however, to 165. Well, I’m afraid of heights! And the bridges in Nepal stink like that... We passed through the Hillary area. Shaleno is beautiful! The spirit will cry both from the heights and from the sights. And he’s hiding, and he’s even scared.

The route is mostly flat, but just before Namche itself it begins to climb about six hundred meters. It’s not easy on one side. On the other hand, there is clearly a cohort that has shared the path before. The yaks rise up and make a planned pit stop. Everyone remembers the rule “don’t walk as fast as you can.”

At one of the stops, in the midst of the gloom, Everest appeared. The chance to look at the new one from tomorrow's radar. Zachepimo hotel Everest View. Kirilo, however, seems that the view there is not great. Anyway, it’s all the same for us. Well, then Kala Patar. Ale, I won’t think so far ahead. Just be careful while there are no other places for praise. Everyone finished their meal easily, it felt good. They were going to Alias ​​- Dekhto was about to leave, however, taking the high tempo to the cob - one word at a time. Only a few people appeared to be angry.

Directly from the window there is a view of the Konde Ri cap. It’s true that she’s shyly hovering behind the gloom, but she’s showing the decal of her hat.

A little more about the road. The track is crowded. Let's get abstract:) Lots of mules, a little less than yaks. Have to re-chew. Everyone mastered the skill of pressing to the wall in just a few years. People are more important:) Whoever goes, be prepared, there are a lot of people waiting. You can also check at posts and checkpoints. There they issue permits and have to stand there for an hour or more than a year. Well... Nepal is definitely not suitable for those in a hurry. Instead of nervously rushing here and there, it’s better to sit on the sun, drink tea from a thermos and enjoy the spring. Take it all in, think, and deepen yourself. Or join in the fun skirmish between your partners. In short, live in every moment. Well, let’s take a look at your skin’s capacity to make it better :)

Plans: tomorrow the radar will reach the height of “where are we going”. We plan to walk for about 8 years, then we’ll head back to Namche. Two nights in one place, it’s great. Here you have a great day, and you go out with light backpacks. І porters smoke break

Great Radialka

For those in a hurry: everyone is alive and well. They went a little for 4000 meters. We turned to Namche Bazaar. Tomorrow we'll go to Tengboche.

There’s no need to write about those that start the day early, right? Right after eating, we decided to destroy Namche up the mountain. Get up here in some places, steeply, or more tamely. We maintain a calm pace, enjoy the excitement and photograph everything that is appropriate. And since everything is appropriate, then in the photo there is a sunflower, yaks, chrysanthemums, birds, ensigns, rhododendrons, restaurants, roads, Zlotno-Posadkova smudges. Well and burn, of course :)

And another temple, shhhhhh! Vidomy mandrivnik Komarov faced mortal danger when he took Yetti’s scalp. Hm... If you understand it effectively, then it’s not surprising :) Film, obviously. We were amazed, but it didn’t work out so dramatically for us. How much more has it hurt to try to quickly touch the key to the soul a few times?

Our road ran through picturesque and steep hills to the Everest View restaurant. We went to Kumjung, where we first got rid of it, and then the scalp of Yeti. It was possible to turn around, but the life-giving dalbat encouraged us to overcome one more hump and gain several kilometers behind our tail. Well, let's go back.

The first part of the road, before they parted, was not the easiest. Ale you spend your energy until Ama Dablam shows up. I will acknowledge all the significance and greatness of Everest and Lhotse, which are also clearly visible from the stars. In view of this power, greatness, the spirit is overwhelmed. Ale Ama Dablam screams a special thrill that I can’t explain. I’ll practice and get to know her better. And immediately looking from afar - even more beautiful, lower in the pictures.

We arrived at Everest View as if spellbound. If the path goes down smoothly, although not too much, it’s quite easy. It's obvious that the restaurant is Japanese. This is a special aesthetics that begins with the line of dahu and loses its true identity to the very foundation of life here, at an altitude of 3880. We didn’t plan to dine here, but... What about? What were you looking for? We are disciplined! We drank from the masala. And yet the most delicious masala is in many varieties in Nepal. We clarified our routes on the model of the city, which is nearby - Kirilo gave us a whole lecture, having given us a whole lecture, there were much more people willing to listen, even less in our modest team. The granite of science awakens the appetite (who said “wash it down with beer”?), then we headed down to Kumjung.

All the buildings besides the temple and others were green. Tsikave vidovische. The streets are winding, all surrounded by parks and stone masonry. The place became more beautiful and quieter. The cows here are kind and welcoming. If you think that it doesn’t happen otherwise, read on. We dined on a weeknight, and Sherpa is still alive (I hope he’s still alive). By nationality and profession. In a large room with fresh varnish on the underside, under the ceiling there is a photo and certificate of the owner. Ama Dablam 2007, Everest 2008, Cho-Oyu 2009... Bauli of various police expeditions... Legend. The veil over the dungeon of strength came over dinner. You can go far with such a dalbat. As we drifted off to sleep, a large group of tourists from Russia arrived, and we found out immediately after dinner.

We went to the local temple, knowing that Yetti’s scalp was kept there. For 300 rupees on the nose, they not only let us in, but they also didn’t monitor our behavior. In fact, they didn’t give us any money, but what we did get, we’ll show you upon arrival.

They believed that there were few benefits today, and the gloom was close, and you could look down at them and burn. We began to gain altitude and climb rapidly. Here there was already a bit more breath and headaches. Now everything downstairs is all right. My head hurt as much as my legs. I was attacked by a yak. So handsome, stately, kudlaty. Allowing me to take photos from behind and from the side, but when I appeared in front of his clear eyes, I got stuffed (puffed up?) and rushed forward. The truth is more than a few kroki. I'm tired of being angry. While we were searching the roads to the entrance, the threat repeated. I think on the right in the bright windstopper. Or maybe you just didn’t want to be photographed.

The road back was more memorable than anything else with the descent along the high slopes to Namche. Colin was bent over with clubs. And I was also impressed by the high school with the football maidan. What's wrong with that? And those children from Namche Bazaar are actually our trek today to walk every day to get to school! And after lessons we play football. If you have illusions about high-quality sports training, take a look here for a few days.

There are many special features in our Green Tara hotel. Charging phones and other devices is cost-free. A rare sight and reception. But on the contrary, they stuck with it because the T-shirt came out with a lace for drying the clothes. After being promoted to administrator, everything was “known” within a year. All is well that will end well :)

Today is already a sleepy hour. Zranku is being destroyed in Tengboche (I can confuse toponyms as successfully as letters in words). There is a strong mobile connection there under the power supply. This is a backup option. In times when there will be no fasting, do not panic and shake your fists.

Tengboche

For those who are in a hurry: we are alive and well. We tasted and enjoyed apple pie. We arrived in Tenboche. Tomorrow we start in Pangboche.

The first part of today's transition was simple and beautiful. A long descent through the spring forest, in a welcoming shade. Kirilo took us one step at a time, showing Hillary’s place far below our feet. It seems like very little time has passed, but we are already high and far.

Descending along uneven rocky slopes is a very tedious task. I’m not going anywhere near the stairs.

With every meter that was dropped, there was a sense of understanding that it would be necessary to gain everything again. I did! Long, protracted climb. No more twists, just more twists. In the bright sun, which was warmly warm on the descent, the heat began to set in. And to go uphill when it’s hot... After many breaks, the place began to become suitable for short gatherings. If they missed Chergove, the hope arose that Tengboche would show up. Just at once, after the next sharp turn, after the very traverse... Hope, as often happens, turned out to be deceptive. And the joy is unsatisfactory :) Just when, out of joy, we finally switched to the normal course, dahi appeared. And our lodge is the first one at the entrance :)

The track is crowded, but it’s still not like that, like on the cob. Keep it simple for a minute. And that makes me happy. We want to go slowly, but without fail. That's why groups often get scammed. It’s easier to miss the yaks :) It seems that they no longer show aggression until the tangerine-colored appearance of the stench. It is also possible to do the work here that is often entrusted to either Nastya or Natasha. And the rule about those who don’t attack anyone if you’re with a girl seems to apply to Yakov :)

So many good things! You have to catch yourself by the hands so as not to photograph the skin of the skin and the skin. Don't go into detail :)

It’s important to finish the day’s walking without becoming anything at all. Having finished our meal and taking light backpacks, we went straight to “he’s those white things on the back of his head.” Short-sightedness is a blessing in the mountains :) I suppose I was amazed at “that thing” from below... And so, I think, I’ll come on my own. I'm coming :) A very good cool plot of three hundred meters. They walked in stitches, shaved the stones and, tired, but also satisfied, reached a small step on the mountain. Girka shrieked at us loudly. Moreover, we ourselves were not lost in the gloom, it carefully flowed around us and rushed up the mountain, along the skhila. Enchanting view! We haven't been up there for a long time. A cold wind rose and drove us to our present destination. It was not only the wind that drove us, but also the meta: while we were on the mountain, four mandrivniks came and told us that downstairs there was a bakery with extremely tasty apple pies :)

We didn't miss the bakery. The pies are delicious! Do you think you can suppress your appetite with licorice? You just haven’t been to Nepal :)

The lodge is seething and bustling with people. I would like to run to Lake Gokyo. We have a company in the warehouse to the base camp. Tell the son of "director Everest" we've been chatting here. Everyone has one thing in common - no matter who goes out into the street, they freeze in admiration of Lhotse and Everest. And you can see them through the gloom so grandly, so snow-white...

Tomorrow our route is to Pangboche. It's not far from here. Let’s leave the application there and simply go to the basic tabir of Ama Dablam.

Basic tabir Ama Dablam

For those in a hurry: we went to the base camp of Ama Dablam at 4600 (as it says on the sign). Were wet, tired, dry. Tomorrow we will destroy it in Dingboche. The planned top point is 5000.

We left slowly. The frowns of the bets from the quiet mouths, who, standing on the street, did not add tension. That same day, everyone was sleepy and restless. To find out, we went to the Mistev monastery. He works from 7 to 8. We sat there for a while and got some peace. I was destroyed. Today's day is due to the fact that "a few simple things" happened yesterday. The welcome surprise was those who turned out to be richly simple. The descent at the start didn’t feel anything good, but a smooth climb and a few short flights brought us to Pangboche. Over the past few years, our feet have rested, other food has been prepared, and we have repacked and left for Ama Dablam to visit. This pyramid either hovered behind light glooms, or coquettishly showed itself again.

For the first time in Nepal, we got food to go out :) Sandwiches were of little use in the basic camp. And no, they are not what you thought. We simply killed them. Having added water, chocolates, pots, raincovers and smoked cowbasks to the purchased items, we went... Down :) This track has a crazy number of descents.

The transition was remarkably easy. Another welcome surprise. It was expected that it would be even more foldable. To be honest, it was easy after a morning warm-up. The rate of flight continues at a moderate pace, and on numerical plateaus it accelerates. True, not so much, in order to overtake the miracle dormouse pair of barefoot travelers. Where are we going to go in such a hurry? Getting acclimated :)

I’m serious about the barefoot pair, but it doesn’t have any effect. Young boys and girls (it seems to me, absolutely unprimed, it seems to me that they are from Portugal) walk with small shoulder pads and great barefoot shoes. And we steadily keep in touch with them. Another permanent companion is the great, horny Mexican. I guess his name is Alan. I ask everyone who is visiting to brag about what’s delicious. There, it’s over, and it’s clear :) Every time I go out, I think that I’m off the route. And everyone will bask in the sunshine everywhere after the transition, as if we are already on our way :) Everyone seems to stop burning :)

Alan to Ama Dablam did not p_shov, but from the intellectually Portuguese light-footed pair virusha. They overtook us unnoticed and easily went ahead. And we, chilled by the balmy sun, told stories at the halt. Kirilo, zokrema, revealed the secret, call it: Ama - mother, Dablam - little cat.

Behind the steps of the church a stone appeared with the inscription “5 minutes to the lodge.” I don’t know where the lodge is, but the basic tabir showed up right away. Neat rows of yellow Northface's markings and trampled yaks all around :) What stinks are there? Roslinity, of course, is not yet completely tortured, but still... The mountains are starting to rise... Here the altitude is 4600 - the grass is green, and the flowers are growing. Yaks, goats, rodents and birds - all of them. On Mont Blanc, at the same height, there is already a peak. Snow ridges. Here below, having lost the remaining butt - Vallo. Oh, having just guessed about the remaining corners, the Rivendell Lodge passed us on our way. The rest of the quiet house... From being on the stitches and stones to light-footed ones, like elves... So as not to get buried in Tolkien, I will end the evolution of living creatures on the heights. On Aconcagua there are only people at this altitude. Please don't go beyond 4300. Not a blade of grass. Don’t get caught up in the food plans of the mish. Burn the carnage, you can’t get one and stop :)

Only a few of us had a bite to eat, as the snow fell from the peaks. They had to retreat quickly. Heavy snow, wet and frigid. The thickly draped boards were not completely turned. Luckily, it suddenly became colder. Why "luckily"? It’s too hot to go to the woodworking house and it’s really tiresome. And then everything became unbalanced. A milky fog curled up the mountain. I remembered the way respectfully, but to know in this dark world everything is known... After the parting words, we made separate attempts to get through the snow as quickly as possible and started walking all at once. But they couldn’t stop themselves from being satisfied and shouting “Yojiiiiik” into the fog, obviously.

A potbelly stove was lit in the lodge. It's big and stands in the center of the kitchen. Mittevo wasted away in the thicket of sharpened plastic sheets that were brought in from the street at night. And on the streets, clothes hung in wonderful combinations. Drying.

Pass on those that are coming up now. There are only two of us in the kitchen. The whole family gathered here. In the lodge, say, the family of the rulers lives, and a number of rooms are built for travelers. It’s great here, if there’s a roar of people from all over the world. It's too early to go to bed until bedtime. And then the Nepalese granny begins to collect the dishes. They go on their own. She coos a little lightly, her face is round and smudged. This family brought us to life through their lives, otherwise they don’t remember us at all. Soon it will start to sound like it’s time for us to sleep. Light, for example, soak it in. We may get up early tomorrow, and often just sleep here, on the benches in the kitchen. Here the spirit still lingers like a potbelly stove. And in our rooms it is ascetic and cold. After all, we have down sleeping bags :) It’s really important to convey everything. There’s only one way to hear it – try it. Alas, the prospect of paying for a liter of boiling water is not good for you :)

Walking in the mountains is not a stroll. Today, the first pills went into use, the first suspicion of a cold (not confirmed), and the first acclimatization packs (I think, these days). Tomorrow we will go to Dingboche and have an acclimatization climb to 5000 meters. As soon as you even think about shaking your fists and crossing your fingers for us, it’s time to start.

Dingboche

For those who have little time: everyone is alive and well. We moved to Dingboche under the boardwalk. We checked the weather and went to 5000. Apparently. We will be in Dingboche for another day.

The prospects did not look bright to the eye. For the whole region, you need boards and sun, and then only boards. That’s why they hung out lazily, wiggling, when the bulbs stopped appearing on the Kalyuzhs.

It was wet. It was cold out there. And it’s hot, because there’s no wind running under the firewood. The transition to Dingboche was short, but at three years of age I had a chance to get some unsweetened tea - I didn’t let it get too hot. At some moment our porters passed us. By the time we arrived, the stinks had already taken over the lodge. Ale not the same. That's why we had a short convergence of plans. Ours took it and makes us happy. There are some disagreements for Nepal. The lodge is new, grand and wonderful. And the bakery is right next door :) Now the trek to the base of Everest is becoming more and more challenging in the minds of Spartan people as they head towards Annapurna. Nastya is already looking sideways at me - I, in the guise of honest advance, have spoken a lot about folding. And here everything seems to be going wrong. It’s nice to have a good time - the hot shower is a great thing :) I want... After entering the base Ama Dablama, I realized that I miss the rank climbs with the mark and the noise of the jetboil.

After a light lunch, it was time for the worm dish. The weather took its toll - the gloom rose high, and the snow ended. We were virushed about 13:30. More precisely, a little later - I had a chance to turn behind the sun-dry eyepieces. Wait, wait, dry up after the wound, if everyone is really wet.

I think everyone was afraid of the exit. Yesterday at 4600 did not come easy, signs were given in the evening. Not everyone adapts easily. Sorry - there will be no details or names, but the Himalayas are not exactly a walk in the sun. І lead to experience in me boules і є. While I’m worried, Kirilo does a great job of making us all happy, and there’s no need to boast about it.

Why were you afraid? First of all, the height is 5000, which is a lot. More than anything else in the Alps, for example. Just recently we were in Kathmandu, basically at zero. I'll give you a different profile. A similar result for our exit in Tenboche – cool and uncompromising. The weather is not melodious - the fall will have to settle, but it’s just warm at the same time. What should I put in? How can I exit in such a way as to carry the minimum? In a word, there were such people. And even after the wounded board, I really wanted to go nowhere and be quiet...

Ale was torn. Catch up with the gloomy ones. And we caught up! We entered into the dark fog and rose up, silhouettes looming, clouds making sharp turns, climbing on high rocks. It was surprisingly easy to finish. Only the remaining hundred meters were easy - it became rocky and from the fog from the skin, new stones were found, more in front. And that means it’s not over yet, there’s still a dozen meters ahead. Our peak appeared a little later unpreparedly. And a feeling of relief - everything was gone - poured into the car of heat and cheers. And then traditional tea and snickers. We looked at the anniversary - until the last hour, to finish the evening, I lost 40 hwilins. Of course, we have a backup option in the form of a bakery - it works until 20:00. The only thing is that the main income of the lodge is taken from food and evening meals; the payment for accommodation is less than the sum. It’s simply not easy for him to understand this. And here we will lose another day. So we sped down. What is not so easy is to work in the milky fog that descended and covered Dingboche during the hour while we were struggling up the mountain. Having picked up a fast pace, I now regret that through the fog we saw nothing from the top. Or they could show Ama Dablam from a new angle. Nothing, then the fog will be mystical – just as good.

And as the evening descended, they set off into a full of restless, cheerful overtones. After the release of strength, the strength increases. We quickly stretched ourselves, washed up the evening and took some licorice and kava to the bakery. True, I didn’t drink any cavy. If you want it not to change, you don’t want it to be on top. Then the brownies are in :) The mortgage is getting knocked out - a typical European mess. Check out books and board games. Nepal sees only a potbelly stove in the center and a splash of water on a thread instead of a door closer. A welcoming atmosphere, a light lounge... What can you do to end the evening? And from what: in the lodge a group of Indian travelers were disrupting a disco. Everything in the city came to life and gained a cheerful feeling. Human joy lives on :) With this rapture, colorful plastic tea cups began to bring joy. And so, daubing it with your finger on the window is still alive. Rozmov, laughter, stories... Ale is already ours, can’t be expressed in letters :)

Plan for tomorrow without singing. We are going to Chukung, and then, as soon as the weather permits, the weather will get worse.

P.S. Hanging out in the lodge kitchen has become a good tradition. It's so homely when it's old. A single lodge, which was considered the base and home of the river, at the start of the trek to Annapurna. Then the house was madly stormed. And at the same time, a little something was found at home in this mess. I’m sitting in my corner, typing this text. And the order is to tighten the curtains and straighten the clothes. The mistress was keen to try out a new culinary twist. Skoda, so that the mommies are not deprived of their place. How many times have you spoken, how many times have you laughed? And I am not a part of it. And I feel like I’m not a stranger... It’s amazing. Great!

Chukung

For those in a hurry: everyone has reached Chukung. Then part went for acclimatization at 5350. The other part went back to Dingboche. They believed that it would be better not to overexert yourself today and deprive yourself of strength for tomorrow. Zranku will have an important transition to Lobuche.

The weather defied all forecasts early on - the sun was shining and it was warm. We were met by a three-year trek with a very smooth climb to Chukung. Who would have thought that it would be so important?! You will notice that the legs can be straightened to a maximum of a third. The day breaks, the head thinks every other time and the deadlines are given with importance. Yesterday it was much easier to reach 5000 without going overboard. It became easier after the first halt, which was much earlier than planned. Maybe the tea helped, maybe the tempo was set right, or maybe the beauty of the city almost forgot about importance and that’s why. We are in the valley, and until then there are great ice caps. By right hand is Ama Dablam. So close that it would be possible to bump into it. In the distance, Island Peak appears due to the gloom. The Lhotse tooth emerges. The wall of Nuptse is home to Chomolungma. Burn black, otherwise edged with lines of snow. The clouds, marvelous in their own right, appear in unusual forms resembling the walls and peaks. We passed the plateau and the feeling appeared so clearly - I put down the tent here, put the chair (I feel like it’s folded, three-legged) and make tea in the jetboy. I’m sitting on a little chair, admiring the mountains. And I offer tea to passers-by. Girnyashka? :) The thought, to the point of speech, was dulled when we walked back. The whole plateau was covered with gloom, like a carpet at night. The weather would have been damp.

For the planned three years, our roads did not move, but we got tired of being kind. Then we were amazed at the yaks :) There weren’t any of them! Great, small, black, gray, brown, splashy... And we didn’t take one more animal, though not a yak, into the company. A cute white-haired watchdog clung to us, roaring all the way. Yesterday it was not possible to post photos on the Internet. Today you can eat the same. Take a deep breath, and the photos will definitely be there in the future.

Barbos brought us to Chukung without mercy. And then, unfortunately, I knew. Run away from your dogs right. Can we rouse a group of mandrivniks like the devil? Well, we clearly needed to renew our strength and grow, so what can we do? The option to simply turn around would be completely realistic. The altitude is 4700, up to it all the children would be more or less ready, it’s more that they were measured, they didn’t lose... After lunch we thought that we were going to the bottom of the earth (on a Himalayan scale). One of our comrades decided not to go - he suspected a cold and was in severe pain. Another one called to help get there. Even though there was a slight cold, they looked uninterested for a few years now. That's it. The boys got to Dingboche Shvidko and without any help. If we don’t stink, we should sit hungry after the “hump.” Remember, we need to complete our orders before 17:00. Who will be at the supper at the time of parting without knowing anyone? It is not possible to make a call in Nepal - there is practically no connection in these places. The radio came to the rescue, as it uncontrollably easily broke more than 4 km into the same position with a zone of uninterrupted visibility. Glory to the radio! :)

The acclimatization process was not easy. In our bag we gained 600 meters, which together with the hike from Dingboche to Chukung amounted to perhaps a kilometer. Here our girls got hot. How many times have we asked at rest stops that we can sit on the saddle back and forth without awkwardness, not in principle, and why not? When it became really important, Nastya calmly said that she was tired and would like to sing at her own pace, a little more. We lost another 200 vertical ones. Nastya’s “a little more” turned out to be such that we weren’t even able to get a drink in the saddle before she caught up with us. What's wrong with that? I can’t say that it’s better for girls to go to the mountains. I have other examples of what is wrong. But for both, such a height, and such a rise - upward. And there were items that had already been found on autopilot. And the stench was so strong!

We sat on the ridge at 5350. The masonry wall reliably protected from the wind. The sun came to warm the side where we were sitting. The gloom was rolling under my feet. The gloom was spreading overhead. The clouds were chilling at the tops of the mountains and growing. It was clear and quiet. We saw the frozen Veletensk Lake, which threatened to resurface and destroy all the towns we had passed through. They filled the lake with water of the same crazy color as in Marsyanti. Didn't you drink this river? See the lagoon advertising some paradise island. The color is still rich and pure. There were dots of orange marks in the basic camp of Island Piku... How could I remember everything?

You won't be able to sit for long. It’s getting cold, and it’s getting dark soon, and the weather is changing rapidly. Have you tried to overtake the gloom on the descent? Why should you rush? If we spent six walking hours on our way up, then on the descent we spent less than three. By the end they realized how tired they were. The routes along Dingboche seemed endless. I thought I could have gotten an elephant with something like this, but the mommies weren’t happy. How much I already love gostre, ale tse bulo too much. And here Nepal again delighted with its contrasts. There is a cafe/bakery next to us. Call me 4410. Unpretentious. Then it’s time to warm up with a deliciously delicious and completely pepper-free chocolate cake :) If you’re in Dingboch, you’ll definitely want to stop by.

Well, I'm going to bed. Tomorrow the transition to Lobuche and Vine will be even more difficult. In just a few more days we will refer to Everest...

Pyramid of Lobuche

We are in the Pyramid. No, it’s not ugly :) No, there won’t be a short version. And if you want... Good. Tim, who's in a hurry: we reached Lobuche, and then went up into the pyramid. The figure is sharp, but the willpower is. Tomorrow we are on our way to Gorak Shep and Kala Patar. The altitude is now 4900.

Ok, once I start: the pyramid is an Italian-Nepalese scientific station, which is now also a lodge. From Lobuche there are less than a year to go and a little less than a hundred to set. This is a very beautiful and insignificant place. Let's say it's different. The scientific part of the station, after the Italians stopped funding it, hangs on their word of honor and on one stubborn Nepalese. You can’t pay a lot of money already, but you can’t abandon the project. To work, transfer to Italy, service station for 10 months in operation. The Italian side is committed to the renewal of financing.

The spirit of Italy can be felt in everything here. The menu includes pizza and pasta carbonara. With Nepali notes, ale is delicious. There are two anniversary signs on the wall - one shows the local hour, the other shows the European hour. And the first TV from hours... And also from Kiev :)

And we got here in fantastic scenery! There is no need for a steep climb from Dingboche Viviv along the length of the plateau. We are getting closer to Everest. Stay healthy and avoid all your blood vessels and blood vessels. The road goes smoothly uphill. Helicopters scurry frequently and hum strainedly in order to jump over the rocks laid out by the Khumbu ice maker. We had to hum too hard. It's getting serious here. I had a chance to climb a pill and share a friend’s backpack. True, the Swede came to life and escaped, like a young saiga. So we buzzed strainedly, but not for long.

Before reaching the pyramid, they went to the radio station. This is a good tradition for us. Once upon a time the hike was quite short – we climbed to the top of the moraine ridge. See such places! Nuptse is growing in size, taking up more and more of the sky. Pumori's neat trikutnik delights the skin as soon as it appears. We have to go in this direction, even if it’s not enough at all. We thought only of going up and down. And there was nothing to work, and the biting wind, as soon as the sky had gone, they began to guess the road and not even the stories. And then plan on who we’ll take photos of and then marvel.

We passed another significant place along the way. Fill yourself with sunshine, ideal for photographs that you will soon share with friends. I... And Rob Hall, Scott Fisher were there with us, and there were still many wonderful spirits that passed here at different times with the goal of going to the top of the world and turning back. The stinks have come. Alone, having lost Hilary’s gathering here. The second one is a little lower. Soon we will see the spirits who are soon going to visit the world. Let's be kind to them there.

Well, tomorrow we will marvel at Sagarmatha and Kala Patara. That's the plan. I recommend everyone to wish us good weather.

Before we talk about the height of Everest. Our friendly host asked about plate drift. The stench appears to be moving 4 cm per river! It's so much more, so much more. And it is planned to destroy Everest within a month. Soon the mountain may become even younger. In the coming season, climbers will hold their noses at the achievements of their predecessors :)

Well, let’s pretend it’s like this, just for the record :) Or maybe it’s tomorrow. It's time to sleep today.

Kala Patthar

Everyone went to Kala Patthar. And thoughts and dreams are still there...

Basic tabir to Everest

Today there are plenty of options for seamless capture, but I’ll try to write a few more rows today.

A bunch of words about what happened yesterday. From the Pyramid we passed by a new little patch of rose-colored grass to Gorak Shep. There we quickly refueled and set off on the road to Mount Kala Patthar. This is an inconspicuous growth on the enemy Pumor. Why go there, I wrote in the last post. Formally, Kala Patthar is a point where Everest is not hidden behind the tight wall of Nuptse. In fact, one of the most spectacular views of the Himalayas appears from here.

Today we focused on Everest. Therefore, about six wounds, the ice illuminated by the sun was crushed into the base tabir of the greatest grief. The road is not easy. Well, just marvel. I don’t even like to shave on the stones, but the stribanins are happy here. We set ourselves up to walk for a long time, until the moment quickly appeared around one of the turns and then disappeared from sight. Before that, it seemed that the trade union corps had given a strike, and they were walking on empty paths more and more easily. The choice of time will be perfect. For every hour there were only trackers in the camp. And now that the Swedes have arrived, you will be a little surprised.

Life in the camp came to a standstill. The well-fed lad Lama eagerly told us that all the clients were already below - they were renewing their strength before the assault. The assault will begin as soon as it appears. It’s so windy at the top that you can’t walk. The railings are laid right up to the saddle, then to the fourth camp.

Since you can’t take a peek at the lives of the tabernacles, why not take your own tour? We didn’t go behind the “trackers should not enter” signs (well, yes, I’ll tell you, brrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr. We were greeted at Akko. Only rarely will any tracker be able to get to the base camp :)). We walked for a little while. Tabir is great! It seems only commercial clients 360. We became aware of one potential oil pump at the top of the world yesterday, on Kala Pathari. Good weather was traditionally said. Good luck to her and everyone else. I’m from below and still haven’t figured out how to get to the top.

Our new acquaintance, Lama, told us about another speech that happens here at EBC. The race itself has begun for 135 miles, which must pass through the base. For every fate, seven spirits must flee. Everything about them lasts for 150 years. “Machines, not people,” Lama spluttered. Just when we arrived, one of the participants came running. You got drunk, drank some cola, posed in front of the EBC banner and ran away. And without missing a beat, you will immediately follow us into the ice-covered Khumbu. The mighty iceman has awakened the whole snow kingdom. The ice is dark. I can see the sparkles in the sun that have broken through the walls of the city.

Exhausted and happy, we arrived in Gorak Shep. Sprague tormented us - they poured three liters of boiling water on us in the morning, they stopped us in a real relationship, and it was hard for us to drink water. We drank some money, drank it, packed warm speeches for the porters (we don’t need the stink anymore, lest something abnormal happen) and headed into the gateway. Now we will smoothly approach Kathmandu. We plan to earn money in three steps. Today from Gorak Shep to Ferice. We successfully hemmed this plot. Tomorrow we will climb another 800 meters and spend the night in Namche Bazar. And then Lukla and the flight to Kathmandu.

The road to Ferice Kazkova! Thank you for the fact that I've been through a lot :) It's a long walk until Ferice itself. Burn huge. The stinks are covered with gloom from below, so it looks like the tops are hanging in the wind. Just like on the covers of science fiction, there are only planets there, but here they are burning. A bunch of Ferice Budinos can be seen in the distance. Together with the stone fences, the small village looks like a small fort. It ranges from the sun coming with the remaining changes to the gate from a massive tree with a small tip. Let's knock. It is important to admire us and let us in. And the gates behind us will be sealed tightly, so that no one will be allowed through. And that’s why I’m cowardly, and over a lot of tea we’ll talk cheerfully in the evening. And ours will never be calm.

So (or maybe so) it happened. It's time to settle into a calm night. Tomorrow is a long road.

Znovu Namche

Tie your shoelaces securely
Fastexy clap powerfully
Let's go black yak
The horn grabs the lanyard
(a free translation of a Nepalese folk song)

We arrived today. We went uphill and downhill, along serpentines and descents. They went behind the yaks, in front of the yaks and in the middle of the yaks. We went and enjoyed the spring in Nepal. And spring took its toll with every meter lost. 18 kilometers of beauty and greenery from Ferice to Namche Bazaar. Something special didn’t happen. The road is tiring, but not safe. If you wanted, you could rub your fingers, or, having mercy, you would get out of the way. Whose luckily passed away.

But our porters have had a hard time today. The stinks stood up and didn’t come out for a long time. Before that, Santos, the youngest of our lieutenants, praised our group. We say, well done, we run quickly and successfully. Before that, it seemed, there was a group of Frenchmen. Eight. Two were known in Namche, two in Lobuche. I don’t care about how cool we are (I want to, of course), but I have to remind you once again that going to the mountains is not a casual stroll. There are all sorts of things here. It's time to drive the porter away. Fortunately, everything worked out and our Nepalese friends arrived before dawn.

Vzagali Rozmova with Santos has a small pedagogical effect for the rich. There is a school joke about those who will be, if you read it badly. Ride 18 km. Navigating the roads in Nepal with an unimportant good backpack is still a task. And now find a trunk worth a quarter of a hundredweight, which only holds the strap on the forehead...

But people stink of goodness. And I, having revealed my malicious nature, caused myself to set my sights on the record of the Ferice-Namche highway. Here you can eat a few things from afar. Our Serhii Sobur aptly calls everyone who is new (that is, everyone) every hour for motivation “infirmities”. Translations in the style of “I am power” come even at that moment, if you effectively divine the relics of the saints. Everything is warm and good-natured, reasonable. And it seems like it happened (I can’t say what’s wrong), that at today’s cut-off Naya Depenchuk broke into the leaders and at the previous intermediate finish, lodge Amadablam View, got drunk first, and also with a decent wind. Here you should rejoice, but I’ll wait until Sergei takes off the headphones and says, “Now Nastya can officially call us weaknesses.” After this, while drinking some tea, I calmly delve into the popular sport of three superfluous houses - pheasant flocks that run from right to left. Forgetting the resounding success of the bobsleigh federation in Morocco, having already thought about how this sport is going to be, get it in your hands, even as long as you don’t ruin it in Kiril’s voice. Before speaking, it’s a good sign to listen to the melodic ringing of a herd of yaks (they have little bells on their necks). When it is recommended to go straight down, you can only chant a very viscous mantra. From the mountain - another river.

While my head was full of landforms, Georgian goats and rhododendrons, my friend Sergius felt like calling me “weakness”. With a mighty swoop, shoot in the air in front of everyone... Krim Nastya. Vaughn uncontrollably took up the steps as she walked. And we, although the hard-working guys are singing, seem to be pushing us back too hard. In a word, while I, not suspecting anything, shaking my head, thinking about how completely respectable I am, how I managed to climb onto the wall under the skin, like into the crests of Mont Blanc (no, seriously, this is not a piece of cake, people, this a whole fluffy COW!), a stop of chicken was approaching to Namche. Nastya is also passionate, yeah...

The result is in Tenzing and Hillary. Don’t know what’s in them? Vyo on Wiki to the page about Everest, joke 53 rik! Here's drama, drama! There were stops and stops on the move, haircuts with clubs and all sorts of things like that... There was a lot of hearing here, you can’t describe it :)

We left Namche with goodwill. What's the hurry? Hot shower! After a sunny day and a long trek along the sawed roads, it’s shorter, lower distance. I want... No, it's a steal :)

The Axis only got out from the heart of the lodge. They flashed lights at us and told us it was time to get our sleeping bags. Before that, a group of Britons were playing a quiz game. I just stopped reading, it was so boring. What carnage, what class, people are dragged down the road!

It's time for us to sleep. Tomorrow the road to Lukla will not be easy. Let's try to take a photo and film some of the dark sunshine. And we’ll fly to the outskirts of Kathmandu, if everything goes well, on Saturday. So from.

Zgadav

Having revealed fantastic disgust on his side. This is how it happened unfortunately, but in the “silent” post from Kala Patthara there was no long-awaited image of Everest :( Vibachte, it’s not at all for nothing. Height, then, and more than anything else, the filth of the Internet and the greedy fb robot has brought it to such unacceptability. Therefore, it is exclusive - Everest. Also Chomolungma, also Sagarmatha, the greatest mountain of the world, Mecca of climbers, 8848.

So, in these photos there are a lot of peaks. You might as well know that Everest is the best. It’s just a short distance away from where the closest white and mountain peak is Nuptse. That’s why it seems like a treasure. Because of it itself, the external sun appears both here and in the base camp. The king is a dark peak on another plane. A friend behind the height.

Lukla

Lukli Airport. The official name is Tegzing-Hillary Airport. There is the shortest smog in the world (and one of the shortest). A total of 527 meters. Any number of pilots in the world can take off and land with such flights. The smuga is not dampened - it allows the liquid to dissipate more and effectively extinguish the liquid. And if it doesn’t cause a particular problem when it’s too hot, then the landing is often harsh.

It’s obvious that everything has been eliminated. People often write about Lukla as “the most secure airport in the world.” Statistics as a whole do not confirm, but... To return respect to the tail of a right-handed flyer from the dark: the incident that, having turned a winged car into a coupe bruhta, was two days before our arrival. The flyer stuck with the helicopter while accelerating. There were victims. Flight between Lukla and Kathmandu (at the same time, in connection with repairs in the capital, airliners fly to the intermediate Ramechhap airfield, the stars have been traveling for another 4 years) often pass by eye. Practical without navigation devices. That's why they can't fly in fog and strong wind. There’s every chance of being stuck in Lukla for an hour.

It's not all that scary though. In our case, landing and especially landing were quiet and smooth. For 18 hours, a flight attendant at Summit Air will be able to treat passengers with tsukerki. Savory, to the point of speech :)

If you ever experience turbulence on a new Airbus or an old Boeing, guess what, the little hard-working Twin Otter will probably fly out of the gloom and have only one chance of landing in the dark with a gradient of 11% (for the airport Tegzing-Hillary is not transferred to the re-approach maneuver, all the requirements must be done the first time) and everything is given to him. And that means surrendering to your great brother.

Fly safely!

Dmitro Kovalchuk, grass 2019