This has never happened before

Review of the “Romantic Collection” hike April 30 – May 8, 2011

9 days – this has never happened before. In general, everything about the route suited us: the places we had to go through, the views, the direction, and even more so the company in which we had to do it. The only concern was the duration of the hike - could we do it?

We were able to. And you can - don’t even doubt it.

But first things first. I usually exercise before going on a hike. Swimming pool, yoga, refusal to use the elevator. At least two months of such a fun life allows you to go second or third person after the instructor on a hike of average difficulty level. In any case, keep up with the group and after the passes don’t wheeze like a loser dragon.

This time everything was different. Starting in October, school began 4-5 times a week after work. It ended at 21:30 and left no time for any sport. Except for the stairs. But I started using it too late - a month before. Bottom line: the ascents of the 2nd, 5th and descent of the 6th days seemed like torture to me. Which could have been avoided, but history, as we know, does not know the conditional inclination, and I had what I had - a slow pace with a quick climb and a “snail” descent. We need to prepare for the trip. But even if a person does not have the opportunity to fully train, all difficulties can be overcome. The routes are passable, the body adapts. And even in the most difficult areas you never tire of being amazed at the beauty of Crimean nature. Anyone can do it. There would be a desire.

The group gathered at the station before 10:00. We bought more drinking water, waited for provisions, and got into the minibus. The road to Sokolinoe is already known - you can take a nap.

And here is the village. The first climb up confirms the weather forecast: it was raining, the ground was wet. We knead clay. At a rest stop, someone rolls up their pants, and someone puts on gaiters (also known as leggings or “flashlights”).

First lunch. We make a fire and boil the first tea. And we look at each other. The group turned out to be mixed: Moscow (5 people), Kyiv (4 people), Feodosia (2 people) and Kharkov (1 person). Total 12. But everything is terribly arbitrary: Zhenya the instructor lives in Feodosia, but worked in different cities, it would be more correct to call him a Crimean; Zhenya the climber is based in Feodosia and Mount Klementyev, but studied in Moscow; one of the Maxims studies in Kyiv, but is wondering whether to go to a master's program at Moscow State University; colleague Ira is a “conditional” Muscovite, she is from Yegoryevsk; I was born in Kharkov. Common ground is found quickly, over tea and sandwiches. It's probably all about the tea.

The first night was the only truly cold one. We stood in a low place, near the water. We climbed into our sleeping bags, still warmed by the enthusiasm of the conversation around the fire; not everyone thought to put on thermal underwear. Those who didn’t guess were frozen and played it safe all the following nights.

On the second day the group walked briskly, and it was decided to take a shortcut. We forded the Sary-Uzen River. After the Silver Streams waterfall, we went up - and came across a ravine with a spring and a dry bed of one of its tributaries. The canyon was successfully crossed. And the group greedily attacked the slope of Mount Eagle Flight.

The height is not as important as the speed at which it climbs. In this case, the height was gained very quickly. Trekking poles come to the rescue: leaning on them can reduce the load on your legs and increase the number of reliable supports. Already at the very top we heard vague screams. Some group, standing 300 meters below, chanted: “Well done!” It probably seemed to them from there that the wall was steeper, and the speed of our movement was more impressive.

Photos from the parking lot of the second day can be shown to the most campaign-fearing relatives. Barskaya Polyana is a wide, decent place, with a solid wooden table and an equipped fireplace. We arrived at the parking lot early (and on all the following days we will also arrive earlier than planned). We looked around. It turned out that we weren’t the only ones looking around: an eagle was flying over the clearing. He flew low, slowly, and frankly enjoyed the effect produced: everyone rushed to their cameras and ran to the observation deck. And there we were completely stupefied: another eagle flew out from behind a nearby ledge, and another one, the next one appeared from somewhere below... For about 10 minutes, 5 eagles flew above us. One could see curiously rotating eagle heads, flight feathers on the tips of the wings, bristling feathers on the back, and appreciate the size of the bird... An incredible sight.

When it got dark, foresters arrived at the clearing and cut wood with a chainsaw until midnight. The triumph of order over common sense: when they finished, our fire was already burning down, and everyone had gone to bed. We can only hope that the neighbors in the clearing burned the wood.

The most popular view of the third and fourth days is the clouds below us. But before going to the yayla, we managed to get acquainted with the horses, wild boars (behind the fence) and see a roe deer.

We arrived at the parking lot again before everyone else and managed to set up a bathhouse, cook soup and run down the radial route to the cliffs. They offer a heartbreaking view of Opolznevoye - you feel like a god from Olympus. Everything is clearly visible.

Before going to bed, 12 people drank 8 (eight!) cans of tea. It's all about the magic thyme!

On the fourth day we came past the Foros Church and tangentially touched civilization. We equipped the parking lot at the Baydar Gate ourselves. The main thing was water. At night, a cloud kept creeping into the camp. The light of the lantern got stuck in the “milk”. Owls flew over the camp, dogs barked in the village, a roe deer was looking for a gentleman in the ravine, and we stood by the fire, like a circle of Druids, drinking tea.

On the fifth day there was the Laspi rock, at the pass - going out “to the public” for pasties and beer, climbing Kush-Kaya (along the way we constantly saw climbers) and spending the night on Kokiya-Kaya above the Lost World.

The stopover above the Lost World is one of the most beautiful on the route. If you go a little further, to the cliff, then below, under the steep cliffs, you can see a piece of paradise, sheltered from the rest of the world by insurmountable ledges. But it rained, and it was not possible to see the Lost World. Cotton candy clouds swirled underfoot.

Another discovery on the fourth and fifth days were iris meadows and thickets of Crimean peonies.

The next day we went to Fig beach and stopped for the day. This hike does not have a “peak” - a day of maximum load. The group was very well prepared physically; there were no clear weak and strong: what was easy for some was difficult for others, and vice versa - roles were constantly changing. But in general, by the 6th day fatigue had accumulated.

According to the law of meanness, it was too late. But this didn’t spoil anyone’s mood. There is always something to do: you can make a foray up to the ruins of the fortress. You can sunbathe on the rocks by the sea. You can keep the fire going and warm yourself with tea.

There are two problems: water (you need to walk 30-40 minutes uphill to the source) and firewood (people move into Fig as soon as the snow melts, and leave when it falls. By the May holidays, full-fledged firewood, and not brushwood, remained only above the trail - that is, 200 meters above the camp. What people burn in August is a mystery to me).

We rested, relaxed and relaxed. But I had to go. This means - again forward along the path past the camps of respectable vacationers, young hippies, and those who like to beat drums. Past the Golden and Silver beaches. Entering the Barrel of Death. The camp was set up above Balaklava. From the height of our hill, Balaklava is quite Monte Carlo. Yachts and boats are moored, white boats are scurrying here and there...

Of course, there were some messengers. They brought bread, mustard, fresh herbs and sausages. The mustard turned out to be brutal. We smeared it on bread, ate and cried. To complete the experience, we snacked on onions.

The next morning there was a descent along a path of small stones, a walk along the Balaklava pier and farewell. Someone stayed here overnight, someone wanted to go to the submarine museum and only then to Sevastopol, wash off and watch the parade, and someone was waiting for the train.

9 days is a lot for a “holiday trip.” On the one hand, this is good: you have time to see different views: greenery in the lowlands, rocky hills, mountains, and clouds under your feet. You don’t have to figure out what else to do before the end of the May holidays or vacation. The route included the best of the “Water and Stones” and “Over the Sea” hikes. It can be adjusted depending on the preparation and initiative of the group. On the other hand, the level of difficulty, according to my subjective feelings, turned out to be above average. And if there is no unity of interests and preparation in the group, it will not be easy to enjoy the process.