Ice Madness Island Peak

Memoirs of a witness climbing Island Peak in the fall of 2019.

I have always disliked the fairy tale “The Snow Queen”. Well, how could one exchange a warm home, filled with comfort and the warm love of relatives, for icy silence and cold? Both around and in the hearts of those around you? What, besides beauty, could the Snow Queen give Kai? True, he was torn out from his usual environment by force. And we went into this cold kingdom voluntarily.

Difficult choice

The trek to Everest has ended and we are back in Dingboche. The legs easily run (that is, run!) down towards oxygen and the happiness of breathing. And it’s warm outside, we even took off our down jackets. Downside on the street? God bless him, you don’t understand: Tep-Lo is here! After testing Everest Base Camp, we came running to the sun and warmth! Oh, and you can’t see the sun? It's in the soul! We've arrived! Hooray! Our beautiful hot heated kitchen; We are sitting by the stove waiting for a hot dinner, drinking tea...

How radiantly Harry, our Nepali Sherpa guide, smiles at me! He has already recovered from altitude sickness (yes, this happens to locals too) and is back in action. I don’t want to think about anything - it’s so good!!!

And Harry smiles for a reason - he asks if I’m going down with him? We form a group for the descent. In principle, the rest are clear: four go to climb Island Peak, the rest go to Lukla. And then Kirill appears and says that now I need to choose, where will I go next? The moment of truth is right there.

Both men are well aware of how difficult the track was for me; It was only thanks to their help, positivity, and faith that I was able to get there. And such a sweet word - down! Kathmandu and Chitwan, air and civilization!

As for me, the most valuable gift from the Himalayas is complete detachment from everyday life; when the brain turns off all functions except those aimed at physical survival. But at the moment I need to turn it on and make the right decision. The logical and safe thing to do is to go down.

And the guys look at me and wait. Zhenya, my namesake on the track, persuades me to go down.

And I look at everyone, nod and... tell Kirill that I’m going with him to the Island.

I can't understand the expression on my group's faces. The lack of oxygen apparently completely shut down my brain activity. Am I out of my mind? Will I get there? Right now, you can’t in any way become a burden for the guys: they might need help, they won’t be able to afford to waste their energy on me.

Luxury

In the morning we leave for Chukung. A picturesque village at an altitude of 4730 m. Our task is to choose equipment for the climb. A pleasant, smiling salesman, who is also the owner of the lodge and restaurant, helps in this difficult matter. The guys try on the equipment, I admire them. Strange, the Moroccan lessons climbing Toubkal were not in vain: I remembered how to put on crampons, how to handle an ice ax...

The guys are still smiling, but everyone already realizes that everything is serious. 6189 m require careful preparation.

We spent almost all the time in the kitchen: enjoying wonderful food, tea, warmth and hospitality. We were greeted by a lot of fellow countrymen, we were even treated to sausage! Sausage is a luxury in Nepal, they don't produce it there. When our Sherpa Pratap tried it, he was simply delighted!

Early lights out. Tomorrow is not a difficult day, but at night we will have to climb. Strength must be conserved.

On the other side of the climb

The road to Island Peak base camp was easy and beautiful. Almost no jumps, smooth rocky trails. Walk. True, shortly before approaching the camp, the strength began to go somewhere and it became more difficult to move. The height is 5100 m, we climbed higher, but every step is not easy. At the camp we are already greeted by smiling Nepalese who simply surround us with royal care. This immediately makes you feel warmer (or from a hot breakfast and tea?) and gives you the strength to climb the mountain. The day is dedicated to training, testing equipment, and mastering jumaring techniques.

All operations need to be brought to automation - this will save health and life at altitude.

The Nepalese guides are merciless: they drive the guys again and again, up and down; every little detail is taken care of. I'm already tired of running around taking photos. Playful when I know that it’s not for me to climb!

Finally, the instructors were satisfied. A couple of photos in their gear as a souvenir, while our climbers are strong and beautiful, lunch and lights out. At 23.00 we get up and hit the road.

I don’t know about the guys, but I couldn’t sleep. A slight feeling of anxiety did not go away. I left the tent to get some air. And she stepped into white silence. While we were sleeping it snowed. Lots of snow. And now it will be very difficult to walk, if possible. The Nepalese guides were awake and talking loudly about something. It is clear that they discussed the possibility of climbing. On the one hand, climbing mountains in bad weather is suicide. On the other hand, how can you deny a dream to people who have spent so much effort and money to get here? And this choice is almost always worth it!

Heavy breakfast

I went into our camping tent and began to wait for the guys. Soon everyone gathered. The decision was made to go. The weather, of course, was crappy, the risks were high, but there was an opportunity to climb to the top. Nepalese guides collected rations, the guys were packing and preparing for the climb. Everyone was not feeling well, judging by their appearance. I tried to remain silent and not project my anxiety. We sat and drank tea almost silently. Not much, since there will be no opportunity to relieve the body where they are going.

Kirill drew attention to my stony face. What can I say? Yes, I'm worried. If it were in my power, I would endure their ascent. But it's up to them to decide. And I need to pray for a safe return. Everyone was collected. Collected, but not ready. But we have to go.

It is impossible to explain to someone who has not been in a similar situation the fine line of almost mystical perception of reality at such moments. When quick glances can tell more than the flowery multi-page poems of Persian poets; to open for a moment the entire Universe of another person for you, when you read more in his soul than in your own and nothing needs to be explained. Fleeting touches mean more than the hottest kisses. The contact of souls occurs as naturally as breathing. And immersion in each other. Proximity.

They went. And then Kirill turned around. I forgot my trekking poles in the tent. I handed it over and can't return it.

The group went into the snowy distance, and I stood and looked after them. I woke up when Sherpa forced me to go into the tent. Night, cold. I was probably frozen to the bone, but I didn’t feel anything at all. If only they would come back!

Expectation

I couldn’t sleep, the radio was silent. This is not surprising, the guys had a hard time, there was no time for talking.

Time dragged on endlessly. There was no news. I went for a walk around the camp. I have no words to convey all this beauty! Photos only. A pale imitation of what the eyes actually see!

I decided to climb the mountain that leads to the next camp on the way to Island. Another plus 350 meters. The snow melted a little in the sun, but it was difficult to walk. I imagined what it was like for the guys. At night, in conditions of wind, snowstorm and limited visibility. She climbed up. What a beauty! An unfrozen green lake surrounded by bright blue skies and snow-white rocks!

A couple of tourists following me gave up. We decided that it was obvious that only crazy people climb up. It was difficult to go down. I didn’t take trekking poles, and without them you could easily break your neck.

I wandered around the mountains until late lunch. It’s cold, but how to part with unimaginable beauty? When will I see this again? And will I see it?

And anxiety was rising. It's 2 o'clock in the afternoon and the radio is silent. Like everything around. In the camp, the Nepalese were already restless. You know, it’s in moments like these that a person’s true spirit manifests itself! I spent almost the entire trek saying that I don’t climb some peaks only because I don’t see the point in climbing for myself. Yes, poor health, limited capabilities of the body - everything has its place, but is not the reason!

Vertex

I decided that I would wait until 15.00, if there was no news, I would try to contact myself by radio. If it doesn’t work out, then we’ll go with the Nepalese to search. I don't give a fuck about not having any equipment! The Sherpas promised to give out an ice ax). It’s interesting that neither I nor the mountaineers doubted that we would get there and find it. There was a very good reason!

I must have really bothered all the Himalayan gods with my endless requests, and the walkie-talkie came to life. What a joy it was to hear from Kirill! And it doesn’t matter that they have just reached the top and have a difficult descent down! They are alive and well!

The Nepalese were smiling! And they persuaded me to eat.

Soon Ira and Oleg came to the camp. What did they look like? Like winners. Exhausted, scared to death, tired and happy. I think they didn’t fully realize what they were able to do.

Soon I said that I would go meet the guys. No one and nothing could convince me not to do this! Pratap asked, “Can you feel them coming?” I nodded and he went with me.

We didn't have to wait long. Seeing black silhouettes above, she told Sherpa that our guys were returning. Who can say where this knowledge comes from? But I wasn't wrong. I clearly knew that Kirill and his guide would be the first to go down. I knew, I felt, I waited. Pratap took it for granted and was not even surprised.

And here they come! Mysticism of the mountains Kirill later said that when he saw a dark figure below, he realized that I had gone out to meet them.

Final

The 16-hour climb was over. Everyone felt bad, so the decision was made to immediately descend to Chukung.

Many thanks to the Nepalese guides, without whose help nothing would have been possible. Pratap, who took on a heavy burden only so that the exhausted guys could go down. Sherpas really don't like to walk at night! But our heroes deserved it!

In Chukunga, nature also rewarded us. She showed us such a bright and beautiful sunset that I will never forget!

Island Peak was worth the trip! Even indirect contact with the majesty of the mountains is worth a lot!

Emotions, surreal pictures, mystical and impossible feelings in our prosaic everyday life, irrational sensations - for this it is worth climbing so high, overcoming yourself and the abyss of difficulties! Hell and heaven in reality. Nowhere and never, except for the mountains, can you experience such feelings!

I am grateful to the people and mountains! That they accepted and released! And I hope to see you soon!

Evgenia Yatsychenko