Get off your beds

Having been on a hike in the Carpathians through the wild Gorgan Mountains last year, having received a sea of ​​unforgettable impressions, this year I again decided to continue my acquaintance with these amazing mountains. And I chose the route not by chance, the one where I have not been yet and which, due to the prevailing weather conditions, may not be easy, the hike is “The Highest Peaks of Ukraine”.

Let me tell you right away what I meant when I wrote that the hike may not be easy. The fact is that at these altitudes in the Carpathians (about two thousand meters), we are often right in the clouds, where certain difficulties can arise. For example, the climb to the top can be very difficult due to the wet path, and the descent can be even more difficult.

And also, for example, when we are at the top and a thunderstorm begins, for safety it is better to quickly lose altitude, and if the ground underfoot is slippery, then this will be extreme. But this is why I go to the mountains. Looking for extreme pastime and just to test oneself for strength once again.

So, first day. In the morning we met the group at the station in Ivano-Frankivsk, sorted our things, got into the minibus and went to the start of our route.

The weather was beautiful. The first day was easy, although usually the first day is the hardest. We decided not to walk much, as we saw an impending downpour, but to set up a camp nearby and, remaining dry, conquer Mount Petros the next day (the first highest peak on this hike, 2020 meters).

We set up tents, lit a fire, got to know the group and instructor Roman well. The group consisted of 11 people, all cheerful and good guys who know what hiking is. Roman turned out to be a cheerful, sociable guy who, as it later turned out, has extensive experience in various hikes and a high level of professional training, which is important, especially when the group includes beginner tourists who sometimes need physical and moral support.

In general, we got to know each other well and said hello to the Carpathians and got ready for the next day. And it turned out to be quite difficult.

First there was a long climb to the foot of Mount Petros. During this first climb, I had already begun to kick myself a little for not exercising properly at home and not physically preparing myself immediately before the hike. Well, I had to go and overcome myself, but what can I do?

Fortunately, the weather was excellent and we decided to climb Petros from the foot without backpacks. And here it is the first highest peak, hurray! There was an excellent view for kilometers ahead, and Goverla could be seen in the distance. After a short photo session we began our descent.

In general, and especially on the descent, I did not regret that I took trekking boots on this hike, which perfectly fixed the galinostop, did not allow moisture to pass through, and did not allow my feet to “go” on the descent and ascent. Once again I was convinced that equipment is an important factor in a hike.

The most important thing, in my opinion, is: a durable, light, waterproof tent (there was a case where, after 5 minutes of rain, a guy’s new tent could be used as a swimming pool, and in the Carpathians it’s cold at night and it would be impossible to sleep in a wet one), good boots or sneakers, thermal underwear, membrane and fleece jackets, and all the little things.

I went a little off the route, but that’s okay, I just want to share my experience and advice with tourists who are planning to go.

In general, our further route led us to the borders of the reserve and we spent the night in wooden houses, next to the foresters. The next day promised to be very interesting. After all, we conquered the highest point in Ukraine, Mount Goverla. We got up in the morning, had breakfast and got ready to go. The weather was beautiful for the third day already and it made me happy. We were already completely accustomed to heavy backpacks and walking at an average pace was quite easy.

A few hours later we had already approached the very foot of Mount Goverla. The sky was clear and there were excellent views all around. In some places a strong wind blew and this gave some feeling of drive and flight. And then another half hour and we are at the highest point in Ukraine! Incredible sensations.

We got there quite early and there wasn’t a large flow of tourists there yet. We were able to enjoy the views around us and take unforgettable shots. Next was a long descent to the Zaroslyak base.

The road was completely dry and there were no special problems with the descent, the only thing was that there was a lot of stress on the legs and knees. And then I again remembered the benefits of trekking poles. Thanks to instructor Roman, who helped me out and gave me poles.

Finally, we approached the Zaroslyak base, set up a camp there and saw off several hikers who had completed their route. The next day was full of emotions and impressions. We started, gained a little altitude, and then the trail was completely flat and easy. We walked slowly and admired the amazing views around. There was the freshest air coming from the conifers and other trees of the forest after the rain.

After some time we reached Lake Nesamovytoye, about which there are various legends. But we didn’t swim in it, since it was already quite cold and we had to move on. Again there was a slight climb, and then we walked along gentle mountains at almost an altitude of two thousand meters.

The places were very wild and there were no people around at all. Then we saw snow and could even touch it. Believe me, for an Odessa resident to see snow almost in July after a hot city is exotic.

We walked at the level, and sometimes even above, the clouds, which sometimes covered us, sometimes moved far away, revealing before our eyes wonderful views tens, and maybe hundreds of kilometers ahead. There was a feeling that we were mountain birds, a feeling of freedom and flight.

Having conquered two two-thousand-meter peaks, Mount Rebra and Gutin Tomnatik, we saw from high up the place of our overnight stay, Lake Berebeneskul. This is the highest lake in our country. In winter it freezes, is covered with snow and it is almost impossible to get there; on the signs nearby it is written that in winter there is a danger of avalanches and it is forbidden to go there.

There were also remnants of snow on the mountains hanging over the lake, it was a magical view. We got tired, set up camp and shared our impressions and photographs.

At night the air temperature dropped to 3 degrees, it was not much warmer in the tent, about 7 degrees, and it was pouring rain all night.

In the morning, when we woke up, we realized that we were right in the cloud, and due to poor visibility, we couldn’t even see the lake next to us. But the rain subsided for a while and we began to hastily get ready to keep our things dry.

Then we decided to go back to the Zaroslyak base, but we no longer saw such views as the day before. The sky was completely covered with clouds.

During the hike, I received an unforgettable experience, a sea of ​​positive energy and energy for a long time. People, get off your beds, sofas and chairs, go on hikes and test your strength. And those who have been to the mountains at least once will want to return there again and again...

Dmitry Lepshy, June 2015