Rainy voyage through the Carpathian peaks

Story about the hike Highest Peaks Carpathians, August 24-29, 2014.

I have never gone to the Carpathian Mountains, and I have never been to the west of Ukraine. Before the hike, I knew one distinctive feature of these ancient mountains, that it rains there very often. Having monitored the weather over the past weeks, I realized that it would be wet. And so it happened. Upon arrival in Ivano-Frankivsk, the weather greeted me with open arms - i.e. rain and wind. This meeting did not bother me for a minute. Surprisingly, there was a large group (14 people including an instructor) and this fact gave me confidence that, despite the bad weather, the hike should be a success.

After waiting for transport, we boarded the bus and set off for what was expected to be a promising mountain adventure. Arriving at the place of the “outburst” called the Lozishchina checkpoint, we registered with the rescuers and set off on a hike. The weather did not change for the better, it was raining. Having made a not very long march, we stopped at a tourist parking lot, where a group of tourists were already celebrating, it seemed, their last day of the hike. Having somehow settled down under a canopy that had seen better days, we decided to start cooking. The fire did not give in the first time, but we still got fire. Dark night fell on the high-mountain spruce trees and everyone began to go to their tents to taste for the first time the delights of spending the night in the wild.

Day two. First tests.

The weather took pity on us and the day began with bright rays of sunshine that pulled the sun out from behind the clouds. Having dried their belongings and housing, and taken a life-giving dose of calories, the group set off to conquer their first peaks. It got hot. After heavy rain, the road turned into a sea of ​​molten chocolate. But most of us weren't bothered by it in any way. Having reached the first serious climb up the mountain, I desperately realized that I needed to work on myself more and run more often. Oxygen, in some parts of the climb, literally disappeared from my lungs and I tried to breathe as best I could. Despite this, the mountain landscapes pleased me more and more, and at some intervals it seemed to me that all this was unreal, because nature cannot be so beautiful, but it turns out it can.

Having reached the base camp site, we decided to conquer our first Carpathian peak called Mount Petros (2020m). Having thrown away their backpacks and looked at the top of the mountain, everyone began their ascent as one. To describe the views that opened from the top of the mountain and on its slopes during the climb, it would take quite a few sheets of paper, so I will describe this climb briefly: it was difficult, but we did it and for this we received a lot of emotions already at the top.

Returning to camp and having a bite to eat, the evening greeted us with an uncomfortable temperature. The temperature was low, one might even say very low, as for summer +4C. Overcoming the chattering of teeth and the summer cold, the camp fell into sleep.

Day three. Roof of Ukraine.

Just as spring breathes new life into chilled greenery after winter, so the morning sun let the group know that it had become warmer and they could climb out of their dens. Having assembled the camp and mustered up courage before an outstanding day, a group of desperate romantics set off to conquer the highest point of Ukraine - Hoverla. Many books, articles, pamphlets, eulogies, poems and everything else have been written about this place, so I will not explain what it is and what this place is famous for.

Having made our way through the valiant checkpoint “Karpatske Lisnytstvo” we rushed upward. Walking through the narrow paths of the foothills of Goverla, memories of my climb to Ai-Petri surfaced, but what I felt while climbing Goverla and the subsequent descent cannot be compared with Ai-Petri.

Not reaching the top 200 meters, a strong wind began to blow, as it later turned out its speed was 15 m/s. Taking all my will into a fist, I began to overcome the last tens of meters to the top. Overcoming the last hill, I hoped to see the pristine beauty of the highest point of the Carpathians, but I saw crowds of people wandering around the top, frantically photographing everything and everyone. After all my attempts to conquer this mountain, this little surprise caused me, but there was no time to be surprised for a long time; I had to take a photo.

Having finally decided to leave Hoverla and go down for the night, our group was caught in the pouring rain. Out of nowhere a cloud came and began to shower everyone. I thought the climb was difficult until the moment when the descent appeared in front of me. The stones became wet and slippery from the rain, the ground slipped treacherously. People descended as best they could, I don’t envy those who stayed at the top. Finally, having overcome the descent, the second part of the epic began, called spending the night in the rain. It even sounds somehow romantic, but in reality it is not.

It was the third day that became the most difficult for everyone. Some got wet to the skin during the descent, some got winded during the ascent, some never got to wait for their evening soup, because the rain poured incessantly even while they were cooking. The matter was aggravated by the fact that there were no awnings at the parking lot; therefore, everyone had an equal right to get wet to the skin already in the parking lot, if someone did not have time to do this during the descent. In addition to the incessant rain, there were gusts of wind from the top. Whoever was able to survive this evening and night deserves great praise.

Day four. Visiting a meteorologist.

The fourth day left no hope of continuing the first route. The rain started and then stopped, and everyone began to forget about the sun. On days like these you understand that our warm white ball above our heads is a great blessing and we are very lucky to live on planet Earth.

Having somehow collected our wet belongings, we decided to take refuge at the weather station, which was located near our camp. After a short forced march, we found ourselves near the highest mountain station in Ukraine (unfortunately, I don’t remember what the altitude was there, about 1500m).

After some negotiations they finally let us in. A part of me protested that I had left the original route, but the voice of reason told me that it was better to spend the night warm and dry than to go wet into the wet and windy unknown. Thus ended the fourth day, which brought both bitterness and joy, sadness and relief.

Day five. Mountain lake.

I think each of us prayed for the weather to normalize and wanted to “continue the banquet.” Our prayers were partially heard and the rain stopped. This gave us the opportunity to visit the famous mountain lake Nesamovite, which, according to legend, gives you the opportunity to find your soulmate after you swim in it.

The road to the lake was both marshy and picturesque. I have always had a weakness for coniferous forests and mountain rivers, but when these constants merge into one, magic happens. The views of this radial became a feast for my eyes, which still could not get enough. After spending about 2 hours on the trek, we reached the lake, which at first glance does not represent anything special, until the moment you climb the mountain above it and there an unsurpassed view of the panorama of the lake and mountains opens up. Among our company, as it turned out, there was a daredevil who was ready to try his hand at swimming across this lake. Having completed his plan, our companion crawled out of the lake rejuvenated and happy.

Day six. Return

The final day of our long-suffering campaign has arrived. And in order to somehow smooth out its whims, nature provided us with a clear sky, bright sun and a warm breeze, which guided us down. The road was simply perfect compared to what happened before. Crossing the paths, one could easily say that everyone was walking with a “flying gait.” Having reached the checkpoint, everyone sighed with relief and some sadness, thereby marking the end of the hike.